Varieties at Can Axartell

On Mallorca it is quite normal for estates to cultivate both native and imported grape varieties. Can Axartell is no different. After all, wine connoisseurs both on and off the island are well versed in the language of international varieties and typically prefer what they know to what they don’t. The first internationally recognized varieties in Mallorca were planted in the 1970s, re-establishing the island’s standing on the world’s wine stage. Since the 1990s, however, the island’s many native varieties have been growing in popularity.

Native Grape Varieties
At just 3640 km2 of land mass, the island of Mallorca boasts an almost staggering number of native varieties — a clear reflection of the island’s very long viticultural heritage. And indeed, there is verifiable evidence that wine has been grown here at least since the time of the Phoenicians.

Callet

Callet, a red wine grape, has proven the most elegant of the traditional varieties. It is likely related to another indigenous variety called Fogoneu as well as Callet Negrella, which has fallen out of commercial favor. Because it is quite robust and requires little water, Callet is ideally suited to the weather conditions on the island. In 2008 there were only 134 ha of this grape planted anywhere in the world, all on Mallorca. That figure has risen in recent years as more winemakers have learned about this lively, mineral-rich and refreshing variety.

Giró Ros

This native white variety might have gone completely extinct had not grape grower Joaquin Montserrat preserved 200 vines, which were then further cloned by winegrower Toni Gelabert. If not for their efforts, the wine world would have been much poorer for the loss. The variety is similar to Pinot Gris for its pink-shaded fruit, with an appealing aroma and higher acidity than Prensal.

Manto Negro

Manto Negro is also a variety native to the island and is speculated to be a natural crossing of Callet Cas Concos and Sabaté, thus making Manto Negro a half-sibling of Callet. Manto Negro is the most widely cultivated of the native red grapes and is often used in blends in Binissalem. Despite its nearly black skin, the flesh is quite pale and when produced as a single variety is reminiscent of many rosés. It tends toward higher alcohol levels, and as a result can often be found in blends with Callet and other varieties.

Prensal

Prensal is a native white grape variety also known as Moll by the local residents in Binissalem. It is an extremely resilient variety that needs very little water, making it ideally suited for the dry conditions of life on an island with no rivers. With its quite neutral aromas and moderate acidity, it is a good blending partner with Malvasia, Moscatel and Viognier.

Mediterranean Grape Varieties

Many grape varieties were distributed over the millennia to the far-flung corners of the Mediterranean by Phoenician, Greek and Roman conquerors. Malvasia is perhaps the most prominent example of this, as it has continued to develop in dozens of different strains.

Malvasia de Banyalbufar

Malvasia has called Mallorca home for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Most of the vinestock fell to the phylloxera epidemic, however and by the 20th century, the variety was out of favor and few plantings remained. Malvasia has been making a slow comeback since roughly 1995, with promising cultivation projects launched in particular on the reconstructed terrace vineyards on the northwest part of the island in Banyalbufar. Malvasia de Banyalbufar belongs to the family of Malvasia di Sardegna and Malvasia di Lipari and can be found throughout the Mediterranean. The variety is characterized by high acidity levels that are typically softened through a late harvest. This in turn lends itself to high sugars in the fruit, which later are converted into alcohol. Malvasia is often produced as a dessert wine with high alcohol levels. Yet when made in a lighter style, that same high acidity can be harnessed to produce a truly fascinating wine.

Monastrell

This variety was first mentioned in 1381 under the name Monastrell, and by the 15th century it was one of the most important varieties in Valencia. The same variety is known elsewhere around the world, and especially in southern France, as Mourvèdre. It can be produced as a single varietal wine, or alongside Grenache and Syrah in blends often known under the nickname GSM. Beyond France, Mourvèdre can be found in vineyards in Australia, South Africa and California. The dark, spicy grape thrives best in vineyards with dry soils and a mild, somewhat wet wind. One could hardly imagine a better home than Finca Boscana.

Moscatel

This variety can be found throughout Europe under the name Muscat or Muskateller. Originally a Mediterranean variety, the grape can be produced as either a sweet or dry wine. Either way, it is marked by a pleasant acidic backbone. The variety is often characterized by a distinctive nutmeg, lychee or rose aroma enhanced by a delicate spice.

Syrah

This red grape variety from the Rhône Valley is one of the most frequently cultivated grape varieties around the world. Northern Rhône wines, as well as those from Australia, are widely held as among the very finest reds anywhere on the globe. Syrah is a powerful red variety with firm tannins, notes of meat and spice as well as black fruit.

Mediterranean Grape Varieties

Malvasia de Banyalbufar

Monastrell

Moscatel

Syrah

International Grape Varieties
Grapes such as Merlot or the members of the Pinot family are international stars, routinely planted around the world — including on Mallorca. Pinot Noir took to the island climate a bit too enthusiastically, initially requiring a great deal of effort to keep its growth in check. Its power has since been tamed and now produces a simply beautiful Rosado. Merlot, one of the most accommodating international varieties, is also a happy transplant to the island. Its velvety texture and dark fruits mark Merlot as an ideal blending partner. Petit Verdot, by contrast, requires a bit of special attention. Although the variety is rumored to have come from the north and thus might be expected to behave similarly to a Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot actually has shown a highly reticent nature. Once coaxed to completion, it delivers an incredible depth of flavor and consistently enchants with both its complexity and balance.

Heritage Varieties

Dozens of grape varieties that once thrived on Mallorca, predating the phylloxera catastrophe and associated periods of viticultural collapse, are threatening to die out or have died out completely. Some of these varieties can now be found in Can Axartell’s experimental vineyard, sometimes only in small numbers or even simply as isolated vines. They are under special care and are beginning, little by little, to multiply. Some of these rare varieties enjoying a second life include: Vinater Negre, Vinater Blanc, Mancès de Tibus, Valent blanc, Valent negre Mandó, Quigat, Argamussa, Giró Negre, Escursach, Pollença, Gorgolassa and Estperó de Gall. The Can Axartell team sees the cultivation of these native varieties as critical to the conservation and preservation of the viticultural diversity on Mallorca.

Heritage Varieties